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Monday, August 26, 2013
Wednesday, August 14, 2013
Posted by Unknown on 9:14 PM with No comments
Many times after an accident that causes personal injury, people have no way to pay their medical bills because they are unable to go to work and they do not have the necessary savings. Many people have certain insurance coverage afforded to them based on the policy of the automobile that they were driving in at the time of the accident. In addition to that coverage, many people do not realize that they may be entitled to certain coverage under their own automobile insurance company coverage. Even if you were hurt riding a bike, as a pedestrian, or in another person's automobile, your insurance coverage may still apply.
Saturday, August 10, 2013
Posted by Unknown on 9:26 AM with No comments
A used portable buildings can also be used, Office, to maximize and use to sell a limited amount of space in many places in the United Kingdom. A portable website company offer solutions for many problems that can occur in numerous companies. Portable Office that can create a safe and comfortable working environment, is true in most places.
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Friday, July 19, 2013
Posted by Unknown on 5:37 AM with No comments
Yes, you can build a very nice outdoor winter garden used portable buildings. It is a nice addition, a garden and a green thumb homeowners.
These buildings offer the perfect addition to your backyard space and a way to save your garden supplies.
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Wednesday, June 5, 2013
Posted by Unknown on 7:32 AM with No comments
Many people think their cat's behaviors are because the cat was
abused or neglected. I want to clear this up for you. Abused cats are
rare. Most cats are just wary of strangers. Bad behavior is usually
because they were never taught correctly or played with aggressively.
So, how can you identify an abused or neglected cat? Let's look at what
cat abuse and neglect look like and then we can talk about the cat's
responses:
Cat Abuse can be intentional or unintentional.
Usually, unintentional abuse is called "neglect" and is addressed by
humane societies all over the world. There are actually three levels of
abuse. Neglect, Over-Discipline (over use of discipline tools) and
Intentional Abuse. This article addresses the Neglect, which is the
most benign form of abuse.
Description of Neglect -
Neglect
means not addressing the animal's primary needs for survival - water,
food, shelter, rest and hygienic elimination. Then there is the more
severe type, where a cat is forced to live in filth, confined to a cage
all the time, or denied companionship with people or other animals.
Many times, this can be caused by not spaying or neutering your pet.
Unwanted kittens, or too many cats, is the primary cause for almost all
of this type of abuse. Sometimes, a person is too ill or has allergies.
Maybe a person is trying to keep a cat in an environment that makes it
impossible to properly care for a cat.
I remember many years ago,
seeing a homeless man walking down the street with his belongings in a
shopping cart. Homeless people were harder to find then, so he stood
out. He was pushing the cart with one hand and had a carrier with a cat
in it, in the other. I felt sorry for both, but being a child, I
didn't know what to do. The cat was experiencing neglect, but felt much
love. The man, I'm sure, didn't know he was doing harm to the cat. He
just knew that he couldn't let his beloved cat go into a shelter - at
that time all the shelters I knew of were kill-shelters.
An older
cat (over a year) has little chance of coming out of a kill shelter.
Most people want a kitten. The grown cats are often given no more than 2
weeks to find a home and then euthanized. This heartbreaking situation
often occurs when people lose their homes, develop allergies or find
that they just don't want to deal with the discipline and behavior
problems that developed in the cat. The single biggest reason people
give up a cat is inappropriate elimination. Next, come allergies,
followed by death of the cat's owner. Some cats are surrendered because
the person moves and is unable to find pet-friendly accommodations.
I
understood the man's feelings of love and concern for his feline
companion. I also understood that the cat couldn't live in that carrier
for long. There was no safe place for them. No homeless shelter would
take a man with a cat. In this case, I think the abuse is
unintentional - neglect, by description. However, I think the heart of
both the cat and the man were in the right place, just that the
situation was unfortunate.
In news reports, we sometimes hear of
breeding farms where cats are bred to the point of exhaustion and kept
in sub-optimal conditions. We hear of people who just keep bringing
home strays until they are over-run and can no longer take care of them,
and the cats become a neighborhood problem. All of these situations
can produce neglect.
Now, let's turn to the cat's response to
neglect. How does a cat respond? Why does it do that? By
understanding the specific situation and response, we can address the
resulting problem behaviors with love, patience and training.
Effects of Neglect
A
cat left in a cage with other animals nearby is often skittish and
afraid of people. It expects food and a clean litter box on occasion,
but cuddles and attention may make it uncomfortable. These cats often
have no privacy issues in the cage, but once free, they are very private
about their litter habits. If the cat was kept in a small carrier, it
may soil itself, or hold back elimination until it is very
uncomfortable. It may be dehydrated and need medical attention. The
cat will be overweight from lack of activity. It may be apathetic when
play is offered, not knowing what is expected. Electric lights may be
something that set off a fear response in the cat because it means that
people are coming. In other cases, darkness may be scary at first.
Once the cat's eyes adjust to the light level, it will be all right, but
when the lights are turned off or on, the cat may cry or hiss. In the
case of a cat kept in the dark except when people are coming, it may be
fearful the entire time the lights are on, while also expecting food,
water and a clean litter box to be provided.
What Can We Do to Help These Cats?
These
cats don't do well with handling. The less you try to pet, hold or
cuddle these cats at first, the better. Let the cat come to you. It
will, given time. Be sure to care for it's creature comforts - food,
water, bed, clean litter box - but don't expect a cuddly cat for a
while. That will come when the cat feels that it can trust you. It may
be afraid of the sound of your feet on the floor. It may run when you
come into a room. As time goes on, the cat will stay and just watch
you. Another time, you may be able to approach and offer a scratch
behind the ear. Eventually, you will be able to give a full cuddle. Do
not try to pick the cat up, but you can pet it and the cat won't run
away or feel assaulted. When the cat responds with a purr, an offer of a
cheek or an ear, or you can stroke the spine and the cat isn't trying
to run away, then you have a cat that is only cautious of you. Continue
until the cat comes for cuddles, which may already be happening. Still
do not try to pick the cat up. If it wants your lap, it will come.
This cat may still run from you if discovered in a windowsill, on a
dresser or surprised in the litter box. Say your cat's name in a
conversational tone and the cat will eventually not run away and perhaps
allow a stroke. In the case of the litter box, just say the cat's
name, but never try to cuddle a cat in the litter box. If you can
provide a privacy screen, the cat may stay in the room.
These cats
need socialization. They need to learn to live with others outside of a
cage. They need gentle discipline and may not know the meaning of the
word "no." They will love feeding time but be afraid if you need to
walk near their food bowls, and run from the food. Give them time, move
slowly and talk gently in their vicinity. They need to learn what
people are about in a good way.
Once your cat has learned to trust
you a little bit, enough to not run away when you enter a room or even
starts to come to you, then you can begin to bond with your cat. A
tickler wand is your best friend for this. Gently shake the wand so
that the end twitches. Your cat will be interested, but may only watch
at first. If your cat goes for it, excellent! When your cat gets hold
of the business end of the wand, allow your cat to feel the success by
keeping the wand steady for a few moments. When the cat lets go, you
can start to twitch it again. The cat will play with you in this manner
for quite a while. When the cat tires, put the wand up out of the way
so that your cat is forced to play with you, not just the wand. If
your cat grabs the wand in it's mouth and tries to run away with it,
offer resistance and don't let go of the wand. Some cats want to take
the wand and hide it under a couch or in a corner so they can worry over
it for a while. Don't allow this - the cat needs to play with you, not
just the wand. After about ten days of playing with the wand, you will
see your cat become more accepting of its new circumstances. Your cat
should assimilate into the household well. There may be people it does
not accept, and those persons can also play with the cat to promote
bonding.
Under no circumstances should you perpetuate the abuse or
neglect! Any discipline needs to be done gently and with care. A
squirt bottle, long a favorite tool for discipline, should only be used
in the beginning stages of training, while the cat is learning the word
"no." After that, you should not need it. Redirection is your best
training technique. When your cat gets into or expresses interest in
something that you don't want to see it getting involved with, redirect
it's attention to something that it is allowed to be involved with or
have.
Some of these cats can be clicker trained, but the bond with
the person needs to be present, first. Concentrated training to
condition the cat to the clicker will be needed. Some cats may be so
skittish that even the best treats will not condition the cat to the
clicker. If your cat runs from the clicker after a week of
conditioning, do not continue. Your cat will never be comfortable with
the unexpected noise it makes. You are better clapping your hands and
saying "no" to stop bad behaviors than trying to clicker train for
positive behaviors.
These cats will be extremely grateful for good
treatment. One expression of that love, biting, may not be acceptable -
especially if the cat bites hard and uses the canine teeth. Push your
hand or finger into the mouth instead of pulling out so that the cat
will not be able to bite down and cause you injury. You can push in
hard enough to cause the gag reflex, but never harder. Never cause the
cat injury in response to an injury to your person. Hitting is never
acceptable - but raising a flat hand so that the eyebrow whiskers can
feel it is acceptable.
If you must pick up your cat, as in putting
the cat in the carrier or removing it to another room, pay attention to
the cat's body. Be sure to pick the cat up by the ribs and the hind
legs at the same time to minimize stress to the cat. If the body is
stiff, don't hold the cat to your chest. Allow the cat to struggle, but
stay out of the way of the claws. When you place the cat down (don't
let it jump), stroke its back if you can. Talk to the cat. It will
stop a few paces away and look at you. The cat may come to you for a
scratch if offered. Always talk softly and lovingly to your cat.
In Closing -
With
all these admonitions and dos and don'ts, you may think that a
neglected cat is too much trouble. Not that much, really. They take
some time getting used to people, but once they trust you and know you
have their best interests at heart, these cats will come to love you
very much. The early stages with a neglected cat are the most critical.
After that, you may find a loving, caring, demanding cat. Demanding
because it may never want to be separated from you. Demanding because
whatever it was denied before it will crave from you. Moreover, you
will be loved, very deeply. It will care about you in its fashion. If
your are down or blue, possibly sick, the cat will worry over you and
try to find a way to comfort you. These cats are very responsive to
their people. Hypersensitive is a good description. Empathic is
another good description of their behavior. Some cats even approach a
symbiotic relationship with their people.
Give love and patience,
and love and patience will be returned. Give concern and care and those
are returned. A neglected cat is one of the best pets for a single,
older person. The cat will be tuned to that person in short order. It
will give love and affection to ease the loneliness and loss these
people sometimes experience. When the person is ill, the cat will
understand and be there to comfort, while allowing the person to care
for him or herself.
Thursday, May 2, 2013
Posted by Unknown on 7:30 AM with No comments
Cat Declawing
What is the use of cat declawing?
The
main reason people decide to declaw their cat is to protect their
furniture. An untrained cat's claws can be very destructive in a home,
damaging furniture, curtains and carpets. Cats like (and need) to
scratch and claw at wood and rough surfaces, and if they are not
properly trained, your furniture will look very inviting to them.
Another reason people give for declawing their cat is to prevent the cat
from injuring them. Cats use their claws and teeth to defend
themselves and to fight. Small children may mishandle a cat and provoke
it in scratching them. Some cats also have a more aggressive or
nervous nature and will scratch people when they feel threatened.
Toxoplasmosis
and Bartonellosis are two diseases that can be transmitted from cats.
It is important to note though, that those diseases are most likely to
be contracted from a litter box, or even from biting - but it is highly unlikely that it will be contracted from cat scratches.
Declawing
a cat is a selfish and very drastic solution for problems that could be
solved in many other ways and may bring forth much more serious
problems. Owners that decide to declaw their cat do this solely for
their own comfort and do not take in account the problems that may
sprout from doing this.
What does the declawing process involve?
Cat declawing
is also known as onychectomy and is a much more complex operation than
simply removing your cat's nails or claws. The declawing operation is
in fact the amputation of each of the cat's toes at the first joint. It
involves cutting of the front part of a cat's toes and means cutting
through nerves and muscles and removing bone. This operation is
extremely painful (it has been proven to be much more painful than
sterilizing or spaying your cat) and it will take a long time to heal.
Even after the wounds have healed, the cat may suffer from a series of
after-effects.
Are there any disadvantages to declawing your cat?
Yes!
There are numerous disadvantages, not only to your cat but to you as
cat owner as well. Cat declawing is illegal in many countries around
the world and considered as inhumane and as a form of animal abuse and
mutilation.
Many people don't realize just how painful a declawing operation can be. Scientists have proven cat declawing
to be extremely painful and even test new painkiller drugs on cats that
are being declawed. Although the cat may not show signs of pain
outwardly and seem to be content, it will definitely be in a lot of pain
after the operation. Big operations or rather amputations like
declawing can hold many of the usual dangers related to surgical
complications. A lot of vets also only use the minimum amount of
painkillers and anesthetics during the operation, and prescribe no
painkillers for the recovery process at home. The wounds take several
weeks to heal, and the pain may continue months after the operation.
Complications
after a declawing operation are also very common. The wounds may
become infected or some of the amputated toes can begin to grow back.
Some cats may experience lameness and even be crippled. You may notice a
declawed cat trying to scratch at surfaces. They reason for this is
because it is common for the tendons of the severed joints to detract
and cause a constant feeling of stiffness in their paws.
Cats need
their claws for balance and also use it to hook their paws on surfaces
and stretch themselves. This stretching forms a very important part of
the cat's exercise and muscle toning. A declawed cat will need to learn
to walk differently (because it doesn't have any front joints) and its
body weight will rest on their feet which can even cause arthritis.
It
is very common for declawed cats to develop behavioral problems. It
may develop a fear for its sandbox, because scratching in the sand may
be painful. So, instead of having a cat that damages your furniture,
you will have a cat that refuses to use its litter box. Also, because
it has been deprived of its best means of defense, its claws, it may now
revert to using its teeth to protect itself and can start to bite
people when feeling threatened.
Declawed cats will also not be able to defend themselves effectively against other cats or dogs and can even die in fights.
Because
of these behavioral problems developed after declawing, many cat owners
become detached from their cats and may even want to get rid of them.
Professional cat declawing
If
you do decide to declaw your cat after all, at least make sure that it
is done professionally and with as little discomfort to your cat as
possible.
The most developed method of declawing to date is laser
declawing. Laser declawing is less painful, because bleeding and
swelling is reduced.
Always ensure that your cat or kitten is
older than 4 months before declawing. It is also not advisable to
declaw cats that are old and not so active anymore, because they will
take a longer time to recover.
After the operation, your cat may
be kept in the hospital for the night, or a longer period of time
depending on the cat. When taking your cat home, try to keep it from
getting overexcited and prevent it from jumping or putting heavy strain
on its paws. It is common for the paws to start bleeding every now and
again, but ask your vet's advice if the bleeding alarms you.
To
minimize the pain your cat can experience when using its sandbox, put
newspaper strips in the sandbox. Sand or clay can infect the wounds on
the paws or cause pain when "scratching" in the box. After your cat is
fully recovered you can replace the sand again. Your cat may not like
the newspapers and this can become a messy affair.
Always look out
for the following warning signs, and notify your vet if any occur:
Swollen paws and frequent bleeding. If your cat display extreme
difficulty in standing up or walking after one day.
Alternatives to cat declawing
Before
deciding on such a drastic measure or "solution" as declawing your cat,
first consider some of the (often more effective) alternatives. The
main reason for declawing a cat is to prevent it from damaging your
furniture. Scratching is a necessary instinctive habit for removing the
dead cells around its claws, practicing balance and stretching and
toning muscles.
Cats are highly trainable animals and can be
taught to use only a scratching post for these purposes. There are
numerous scratching posts or "cat furniture" to choose from, whether
your cat likes scratching vertical or horizontal surfaces. You can even
buy "cat trees" with attractive objects hanging from the tree to catch
your cat's attention or build your own (just make sure they are stable
and won't fall over on your cat).
To train a cat to use scratching
posts, and to discourage it from scratching your furniture, you can
place netting or foil over your furniture. When you see your cat trying
to scratch your furniture, pick it up and put it down in front of its
scratching post.
Nail caps can be applied to a cat's claws, this
need to be applied every 3 to 6 months depending on the cat. Nail caps
will prevent damage to your furniture and to yourself while causing
almost no inconvenience to your cat (compared to the serious discomfort
caused by declawing). You can also trim your cat's nails frequently to
keep it blunt.
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Posted by Unknown on 7:28 AM with No comments
To keep your cat happy, healthy and clean it is essential to
properly groom your cat. By reading this section you will learn how and
when to groom your cat and also what equipment to use. You will learn
how to brush your cat, bath your cat, how to clean your cats ears and
how to look after your cats teeth.
Brushing and combing your cat
Cats
spend 10 percent of their waking hours grooming themselves by licking
dirt and excess fur of their coat but this is not enough to properly
keep them clean and some cats do not clean themselves properly. You
should brush and comb your cat on a regular basis. Short-hair cats are
much easier to groom than long-hair cats. If you are unsure of what your
cat is, visit the breeds section. When you are grooming your cat you
should be alert and checking for fleas, scars, wounds and lumps.
The
first thing you need to know is the difference between a cat comb and a
cat brush. A cat comb is used to remove excess hair, remove knots and
to remove dirt. A cat brush is to fluff up the fur and make it smooth
and look good. If you own long-hair cat I would recommend buying both a
comb and a brush as you will learn later on, if you own a short-hair cat
it is not as important but you can if you want.
You could
alternatively choose to buy a cat grooming kit which includes a comb,
brush and everything else you need. You can buy the right equipment from
your local pet shop but you could also consider buying online. There
are many different combs and brushes to choose from and all of them have
their advantages and disadvantages. If you want to get the best results
and not spend a fortune you should buy a wide toothed comb, a brush and
a flea comb. This should all cost under $10 USD.
It is a waste of
time brushing your cat with a normal comb/brush. The advantages of
using a cat brush is that it shelters the natural body oils, the
bristles gently remove tangles and after brushing your cat it will have a
shiny, good looking and healthy coat. But most importantly it is
designed to remove excess hair, then in future when your cat cleans
itself it does not swallow as much hair, preventing it from having a
hairball.
If you have a kitten, it should be brushed from an early
age so it becomes accustomed to the process and doesn't find it a scary
and distressing experience. It will enjoy the grooming procedure but
most of all you will not have to train it later on in its life. If you
have an adult cat that does not like to be brushed and finds the
experience frightening, introduce grooming slowly and do not make the
sessions more than five minutes. If this does not work you could try
ending the grooming session with playtime so your cat will look forward
to it each day. One of the most important things to remember is that a
short session each day is better than a long session each week.
As
I briefly mentioned before, short hair cats are easier to groom than
long-hair cats, it is a bit more difficult and the process can take a
bit longer. If you own a short-hair cat you should groom it on a weekly
basis or every few days and it should take from 5 to 10 minutes. If you
own a long-hair cat grooming should be done everyday or every two days
and it should take about 10 to 20 minutes. By now you are probably
thinking 'how can you brush a cat for 20 minutes'. The grooming process
is not just brushing but is also cleaning nose and ears if necessary and
sometimes brushing your cat's teeth. For more information about these,
read on.
To groom your cat, follow these easy steps:
-Place
your cat on a bench or table. It depends on what your cat is most
comfortable with; some owners brush their cat on their laps.
-Gently
brush from head to tale using short and gentle strokes with your comb
to remove knots, do not pull hard otherwise it will hurt and distress
your cat, making the experience unpleasant and enjoyable. For best
results also brush under its neck and stomach. If you have a flea comb,
brush again from head to tale.
-Use a brush to fluff up the fur,
if you are unsure of what brush to use ask your local pet shop. A cat
brush is good for your cat's appearance and health and can be brought
from a number of different places.
Bathing your cat
It is
not necessary to bath your cat unless it becomes very dirty. Most people
who have prize-winning cats bath their cat on a regular basis. Many
cats do not like water and find a bath a frightening and traumatic
experience. If you ever need to bath your cat, the below information
will tell you how. The first thing you need to do is to brush your cat
to remove excess hair and dirt. Talk to your cat with relaxed voice to
keep it as calm as possible and do no make quick movements. Have
everything ready before you start which should consist of 4-6 towels,
shampoo, a hair dryer and cotton balls. You can use special cat shampoo
or you can use regular shampoo but it really doesn't make a difference.
Use
cotton balls to protect water from getting into your cats ears. If your
cat has smaller ears use only half or even a quarter. If you have a
bathroom or laundry hose, use it because it makes it much easier. If you
don't have a hose use a cup or plastic container. You should not wear
good clothes because the chances are that you will end up as wet as your
cat. Wash your cat in a bath or a laundry sink. Start by wetting it
with warm water. Avoid wetting its eyes and ears as much as possible
unless it particularly dirty.
Hold your cat firmly because it will
try to escape and probably bite and scratch you. Once the cat is wet
apply shampoo and gently massage. If your cat is really dirty you can
shampoo twice. Rinse your cat from top to bottom and make sure you get
all of the shampoo out. Use the towels to dry your cat as best as you
can then finish the job off with a hairdryer.
Cleaning your cats ears
Cleaning
your cat's ears should be a part of your grooming routine. To get rid
of the dirt and wax, use a cotton swab but never go deeper than you can
see because it can cause permanent damage to your cats hearing. It
should be done every month.
Dental Care (article)
Many
people do not brush their cats teeth often enough, some have never done
it. If your cat's teeth are not brushed, bacteria will build up and
could result in loss of teeth. You should brush your cat's teeth every
week. If you have a kitten you should start brushing when all of its 36
teeth have grown which is around 6 months of age. If you have an adult
cat, introduce slowly and keep the sessions short.
You can buy
special toothbrushes designed for cats but a child's toothbrush will be
just as good, just make sure the bristles are soft so they do not cut
the gums. Do not use normal toothpaste because it will cause digestive
problems and make your cat sick. You can buy special cat toothpaste from
your pet shop, vet or online.
To properly brush your cat's teeth
start by gently brushing the outer surface of the teeth. Do not brush
the inside of the teeth until your cat is used to the process. Brush in a
circular motion from the bottom of the gum to the tips of the teeth.
Some cats require professional cleaning when there is a severe build up
of tartar. When brushing your cat's teeth note the condition of your
cat's gums.
Consult your vet if the gums are swollen, if there is
any bleeding, bad breath, drooling, dark spots, sores, refusal to open
mouth or reluctance to eat. If your cat has any of these symptoms there
is a chance that it has gum disease. Gum disease is common in cats and
can be fatal unless treated. It begins with the build up of plaque and
tartar which causes the roots to become infected. This can be prevented
by regular brushing.
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